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Azienda agricola

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La biodiversità per noi è obiettivo primario e valore da tutelare.
I ricchi e curati orti-giardino, che si scoprono passeggiando ad Apella, sono il simbolo di un’agricoltura contadina, ormai quasi perduta ma che abbiamo voluto preservare. Si tratta di un’attività secolare, dedita a coltivazioni su piccola scala, di tipo familiare, condotte in terreni in gran parte difficili da arare con mezzi meccanici, recuperati grazie a terrazzamenti realizzati con muretti a secco. Questi terreni sono seminati ogni anno con semi ricavati da produzioni precedenti, tramandati di volta in volta, di specie tipiche del luogo e a rischio estinzione, senza utilizzo di prodotti chimici, serre o letami sintetici, ma solo naturali, provenienti dai nostri allenamenti. Il letame dei nostri animali è, infatti, alla base delle coltivazioni che portiamo avanti, dotando il terreno di sostanza organica di altissima qualità e arricchendola di microrganismi fondamentali per avere piante sane e robuste. Si tratta, quindi, di un’azienda agricola che segue le strette regole del biologico, nel rispetto della natura e della sua biodiversità, proiezione della tradizionale matrice agrosilvopastorale del luogo, in questo importante presidio, che fino ad oggi è riuscito a limitare il grave problema del dissesto idrogeologico, legato all’abbandono del territorio.

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Gli oltre 600 ettari che abbiamo in gestione tra orti, pascoli, prati, castagneti da frutto e boschi sono un enorme patrimonio che merita di essere tutelato e valorizzato attraverso un’agricoltura di qualità, un allevamento brado o semi brado di razze tipiche, che limiti l’avanzare del bosco e il mantenimento del prato-pascolo, rallentando e ostacolando la perdita di molte varietà vegetali naturali o risultato di secoli di interazione umana.

In particolare, la cooperativa agricola Montagna Verde è nata alla fine degli anni ottanta proprio con l’obiettivo di salvaguardare l’immensa ricchezza dei castagneti da frutto e del sottobosco dell’areale nell’alta valle del Taverone, in un momento in cui stava iniziando un forte abbandono del luogo, per il numero esiguo di residenti, per elevarsi della loro età e il conseguente venir meno del loro lavoro e della cura del bosco. Questo ha consentito di mantenere attività locali di pulizia del sottobosco, di potatura delle piante, con eliminazione o rallentamento del “castagno selvatico”, e di raccolta dei prodotti del bosco, come porcini e castagne, da sempre un importante sostegno alla microeconomia del posto.

Accanto alle produzioni vegetali come ortaggi, alle nostre patate di montagna, alle cipolle “tipo Treschietto” e mais antico “ottofile”, erbe aromatiche e officinali, olive, castagne, frutta e frutti di bosco, si allevano allo stato brado e semi-brado mucche (principalmente razza Limousine, molto adatta all’asperità dei terreni), pecore (razza “agnello di Zeri”, presidio Slow Food) e maiali (razza “cinta senese”), oltre che animali di cortile, allevati a terra, come galline, anatre, oche, faraone. I prodotti ricavati sono tutti impiegati nella cucina del ristorante, con garanzia di freschezza e genuinità, dove il ruolo del cuoco e del suo staff non è solo quello di cucinarli bene, ma anche di contribuire a salvare una filiera alimentare locale, preservare razze in via di estinzione, documentare, attraverso il cibo in tavola, la ricchezza gastronomica e la bellezza paesaggistica del luogo. Dall’altro lato, i nostri ospiti potranno trascorrere una piacevole vacanza o anche solo gustare un pranzo o una cena, con la consapevolezza che, mangiando e bevendo bene, daranno un contributo importante per la salvaguardia delle tradizioni e dell’ambiente.

In particolare, la Farina di Castagne della Lunigiana DOP e il miele biologico aziendale rappresentano i principali prodotti della nostra azienda, oltre che due elementi ambasciatori per il territorio lunigianese, risultato di due delicate filiere, messe a rischio ogni anno per l’aggressività di parassiti come, rispettivamente, il “cinipide” del castagno e la “varroa” delle api (oltre che da avverse condizioni meteorologiche che spesso ne limitano la produzione).

La Farina di Castagne della Lunigiana D.O.P. nasce dal rispetto di un’antica filiera, che ha fatto del castagno il cosiddetto “albero del pane” nei secoli passati, per l’alimentazione e la sussistenza della gente d’Appennino. Essa parte dalla cura dei castagneti secolari intorno Apella e Taponecco, e prosegue con la raccolta e selezione delle migliori varietà locali di castagne, passando attraverso il recupero del tradizionale metodo di essiccazione lenta, con esclusivamente legna di castagno, per oltre un mese, senza sosta durante il giorno e la notte, negli antichi metati o “gradili” e, infine, la molitura, ottenuta con macine a pietra, nei tradizionali mulini ad acqua. Ed è proprio grazie al rispetto di questo metodo di produzione, unitamente alla dedizione al lavoro e alla passione per la riscoperta delle tradizioni locali, che la farina di castagne dell’azienda si presenta come un prodotto unico per l’altissima qualità, lo spiccato sapore dolce dall’intenso aroma di castagne, la consistenza “borotalcata” dal color avorio crema, che ne consentono una grande versatilità, a partire dagli impieghi in cucina. Il nostro cuoco si diletta quotidianamente a realizzare piatti a base di farina di castagne, rivisitando e arricchendo le antiche ricette contadine del posto.

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Il nostro miele biologico nasce in un ambiente naturalistico ancora incontaminato, un’oasi naturale, in cui la ricca biodiversità del territorio e l’assenza di agricoltura convenzionale, con uso di concimi chimici e altre forme d’inquinamento, unitamente alla certificazione biologica a tutela del consumatore, sono la garanzia per un prodotto di altissima qualità e genuinità, dal sapore unico del territorio di origine.

 Ogni anno a fine primavera, Barbara e suo padre raccolgono il miele negli apiari distribuiti nei boschi di Apella e Taponecco, in Lunigiana, lo trasferiscono poi nel laboratorio aziendale, dove con la semplice centrifugazione meccanica, senza alcuna alterazione del prodotto, lo estraggono dai favi di cera e lo confezionano per un pronto consumo. In base al periodo e alle fioriture in essere, si produce miele di millefiori, di acacia e di castagno. In particolare, quest’ultima varietà rappresenta la principale produzione, sia in termini di quantità, per l’abbondanza di castagneti, sia in termini di qualità organolettiche e sapore. Si tratta di un prodotto dall’incredibile aroma di castagno, dal profumo intenso e coloro ambrato, che ben si sposa con i formaggi di pecora locali, o per esaltare il profumo di carni di maialino e agnello ai testi, ma anche da gustare da solo o per addolcire qualche bevanda e tisana, in un’immersione totale nei sapori più autentici della Lunigiana.

Gli essiccatoi del paese (unitamente ai castagneti aziendali) e il laboratorio del miele possono essere visitati durante il soggiorno, anche accompagnati dal personale dell’azienda, e resi disponibili per visite guidate per le scolaresche.

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